The academy and festival Musique Cordiale takes place during the first two weeks of August in the south of France. How lovely does that sound? It is based at Seillans, one in a line of pink-tiled Provençale villages perched on a range of Alpine foothills stretching down towards the Mediterranean. You can see the sea from the peak at La Pigne. The French call these precipitous townships villages perchés, their steep, narrow alleys furnished with handrails for pedestrians who have to beware of traffic in the form only of motor scooters.